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Denali

AK, Denali National Park, View across the 280 foot deep Wonder Lake with Mt McKinley in the background
| Established: |
1917 (AK's 1st NP) |
Note: Mount McKinley National Park established by an act of February 26, 1917 (39 Stat. 938). Adjacent Denali National Monument established by Presidential Proclamation, December 1, 1978. National park and national monument consolidated to form Denali National Park and Preserve by the Alaska National Interest Land Conservation Act (94 Stat. 2382), December 2, 1980.
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| Location: |
Southcentral Alaska (via the George Parks Hwy, Rt 3 approx 240 mi. N. of Anchorage, 125 mi. S. of Fairbanks)
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| Acres: |
6,028,000 (4th largest NP in the US) |
Soaring ice capped mountains, clear mountain streams, moose, wolves, caribou, and grizzlies.
The enormity of this state is nowhere better felt than at Alaska's most popular National Park.
Home to Mt McKinley the highest mountain
in North America at 20,320 feet and the tallest in the world when measured from its base to the summit. A massive mountain which towers over the horizon and is visible from about 70 miles away on a clear day.
AK, Denali National Park
Denali or "High One" as the native Athabascan people called this
massive peak encompasses more than 6 million acres of arctic forest and tundra. Denali National Park is larger than
the state of Massachusetts and the fourth largest National Park in the U.S. Providing one of the last habitats to
North America's widest ranging mammals. One of the few areas in the world where large populations of wolves, moose,
caribou, Dall sheep, and grizzly bears thrive.
Your chances at viewing these animals is further aided by the National Park policy of restricting traffic on the
main park road. Only tour buses, park officials, and camper's vehicles are allowed on this 85 mile one way road.
Even campers are restricted to one entry and one exit in three days.
The overall landscape of Denali is best described if divided into its three major zones ie. the lowland evergreen
forest zone, higher artic tundra, and the barren snow, ice, and rock of Mt McKinley's summit. The evergreen forest
zone of valley and rivers being home to most of Denali's wildlife. Amidst its stands of spruce and aspen trees you will
find Denali's moose, wolves, and grizzly bears. The limit of this forest is at an elevation of 3,000 feet. Very low
considering the timberline in Colorado is 10,000 feet. Due in part to Alaska's frigid winters
From 3,000 to 7,000 feet is the artic tundra. A zone of low lying dwarf shrubs, avens, cottongrass, and mosses. High winds, nine months of snow, and very little topsoil prevents any large growth. It is here you will find Denali's Dall sheep (a relative of Bighorn sheep) and caribou. Caribou migrate in large herds across vast stretches of the Alaskan Range.
 AK, Denali National Park, One of the many glaciers slowly carving out land between the peaks on Mt McKinley
Levels from 7,000 to 20,320 is massive Mt McKinley. A formidable mountain whose low baseline and soaring slopes are blanketed year-round with snow that make it very impressive.
Among all of Denali's wildlife it is the grizzly bear the attracts the most attention. The King of Predators who knows no equal. Although years of hunting these animals may have instinctively taught the grizzlies to avoid humans which they generally do. Grizzleys are rarely known to attack humans. Clear exceptions being a
wounded bear, cornered bear, or those with cubs. Although their is actually little defense if attacked, such encounters have
been thwarted by striking the grizzly on his sensitive
nose. One of the few places that has any impact on his
massive body (a tactic which also works as a last resort
for sharks). Although fighting with a bear is generally a no win scenario. And your odds at outrunning a grizzly are slim.
Despite his size, grizzly bears can run almost twice as
fast as humans (35 mph compared with man's 22 mph). And
with claws that can rip apart a 1,000 pound moose in
minutes, your ability to survive once attacked is generally up to the bear.
The debate lingers on the best tactics to employ once attacked but let me give you some options to consider. Running is generally considered a bad idea by almost all experts. To fight or not to fight is debatable. Some of the best advice however is to bring bear mace with you in bear country since firearms are not permitted in many areas of this park and other National Parks in Alaska
(the same mace used for human attackers only in a lot bigger canister). Makes sense. It changes an animals attitude
very quickly. Especially when it can't see or hardly breathe anymore. We've used the stuff to stop a variety of charging animals in their tracks. Although not a charging black or grizzly bear. At a minimum it will blind them temporarily. Then run to the nearest tree and climb it! Grizzlies can't climb. But contrary to popular belief they are quite agile running downhill and anywhere else and probably will catch you. In closing let me give you the National Park Service policy and you decide.
The National Park Service advice on avoiding encounters with black and grizzly bears: - Most bears are solitary animals that avoid humans but can be very dangerous if unexpectedly surprised or with cubs. Avoid surprising bears. They may perceive you as a threat if you startle them. Sing, shout, or make other loud noises as you walk to warn bears of your
presence. Be especially careful in dense brush, where visibility is low,
and along rivers, where bears cannot hear you over the noise of the
water.
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Never intentionally approach a bear. Give them space. If you encounter a bear, DO NOT RUN ! Running may elicit a chase response from an otherwise non-aggressive bear. Bears can run faster than 30 mph and you cannot outrun them.
If the bear is unaware of you, detour quickly and quietly away. Give the bear plenty of room, allowing it to continue its activities undisturbed.
BACK AWAY SLOWLY if the bear is aware of you but has not acted aggressively. Speak in a low, calm voice while waving your arms slowly above your head. Bears that stand up on their hind legs may not be threatening you, but merely trying to identify you.
- SHOULD A BEAR APPROACH OR CHARGE YOU, DO NOT RUN AND DO NOT DROP YOUR PACK ! Bears occasionally make bluff charges, sometimes coming within ten feet of a person before stopping or veering off. Dropping a pack may encourage the bear to approach people for food. STAND STILL until the bear moves away, then slowly back off.
- IF A GRIZZLY MAKES CONTACT WITH YOU, PLAY DEAD. Curl up into a ball with your knees tucked into your stomach, and your hands laced around the back of your neck. Leave your pack on to protect your back. If a black bear attack is prolonged, change tactics and fight back vigorously. Do not fight with a grizzly, play dead.
- A Fed Bear May Become a Dead Bear
Allowing a bear to obtain human food or garbage, even once, may cause it to seek out more human food. Eventually, if the bear becomes a threat to human safety, it will be killed.
In total Denali has 7 campgrounds of which Riley Creek, Savage River, and Teklanika River are the largest. Morino is a walk-in backpacker's campground located near the railroad depot. All provide numerous opportunities for face to face encounters with Alaska's wildlife. The National Park Service provides bus service on this park road from the visitor center every day from May 25 through September 12.

Riley Creek is Denali's largest campground with 100 sites. It is located at mile 0 of the Park Road at the entrance to Denali National Park and Preserve and is open to RV or tent camping. A maximum of 8 campers and 2 tents or 1 RV are allowed per campsite. Riley Creek is the only campground open year-round.
The Savage River Campground located at mile 13 has 33 sites and three group areas. It is open to RV or tent camping. Water (weather dependent) is available at this campground. Campers staying at Savage River without a vehicle can use a Camper Bus Ticket as transportation to the campground (see shuttle reservation fax form).
Located at mile 29 of the Park Road is the Teklanika River Campground. The second largest (55 sites) and deepest campground into Denali that allows vehicles. Campers staying at Teklanika River without a vehicle can use a Camper Bus Ticket as transportation to the campground. Campers driving to Teklanika must stay a minimum of 3 consecutive nights, drive to the campground and back out to the entrance one time only, and can drive only one vehicle. Make sure you get all
necessary items before going to Teklanika. There are no gas stations or services west of the Denali Park Hotel, and no telephones west of Park Headquarters. No towed vehicles, except for 5th wheel trailers, allowed. Teklanika River campers should also purchase a Teklanika Pass. The Teklanika Pass is a shuttle bus ticket good for the entire campground visit. This pass allows the camper to reserve a seat on a specific bus for the first full day of their stay. After using the reserved portion of the Teklanika Pass, the camper can use the stub of the Teklanika
Pass to board any shuttle bus on a space-available basis for the remainder of their campground visit.
 AK, Denali National Park, Caribou
The remaining four campgrounds are no vehicle, tent only, campgrounds. They include Morino which is adjacent the railroad depot, Sanctuary River, Igloo Creek, and Wonder Lake. These campgounds are only accessible by the shuttle buses. Wonder Lake is at the end of the 85 mile park road adjacent the 4 mile long, 280 foot deep Wonder Lake. The fees for these campgrounds range from $6-$16 and sites can be reserved by calling 1 (800) 622-7275.
Denali also has 17 cabins ($275 night all inclusive) and 15 lodge rooms ($285 night all inclusive). The Denali National Park Hotel has 100 rooms which rent for $150 night. All of these units are open during the summer only.
Denali National Park & Preserve, P.O. Box 9, Denali Park, AK 99755 (907) 683-2294. Some excellent additional photos can be viewed at www.nps.gov/dena,
www.trailmonkey.com, and www.terragalleria.com.
All text and photos copyright ©1994-2006 Charles A. Read and ScenicUS. Comments or Suggestions, Contact the Author Charles A. Read.
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